A note on proofreading...

I posted my last newsletter/blurb/article (?)/whatever you’d like to call it in a hurry and skipped a cardinal rule of writing: reading. Or rather, proofreading. I was so ashamed of the sheer volume of typos and grammatical errors that I did not deign to write for many weeks. Instead of divulging unsolicited thoughts on recent beauty empties, overstepping aestheticians, my favourite discoveries, etc. etc., I sat staring at my computer screen, hands poised at the ready to type, recoiling in defeat after failing to make it further than that. So many grand thoughts of an escapade on beauty, and I failed to deliver. While the level of shame is sufficient to last me well into the new year, upon further reflection I’ve concluded that abstaining from any writing whatsoever simply won’t help anyone, least of all myself. I hesitate to dwell too much on this, but I thought better late than never to provide a roundup of beauty as we close out the year. And without further ado, here is the first part of my beauty down-low that nobody asked for - and while skincare is the linchpin of this newsletter, next time we’ll delve into the behemoth that is MAKEUP.

Okay. So. We begin at the beginning. Here are some noteworthy empties from this past year, the good and the mediocre (but mostly good):

Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing balm: I love the consistency of this cleansing balm - it feels like liquid honey on your face, though less viscous. It effectively removed makeup and dirt from my face without stripping, nor did it leave the common greasy residue that gives me the ick with so many other balms.

Glossier After Baume: like a cocoon for your face. With packaging reminiscent of the blue Nivea crème tin (though with a more spearmint hue, as though to evoke soothing thoughts), this looks great on the top shelf.

Chanel No. 1 revitalizing eye cream: my favourite product from the No. 1 line, other than the Serum in Mist. I’m generally not a big believer in eye creams - they just seem to feel nice and cold. I’m also 25 and get a lot of sleep, so eye bags aren’t a huge concern. I do get extra puffy though (read: I’m a cancer moon), and love using this eye cream with cryo sticks to help with that.

Skinceuticals Triple Lipid Restore 2:4:2: this cream changed my skin texture for the better. It’s excellent for when your skin barrier is compromised and needs a little extra love, and there’s something satisfying about restoring “surface lipids” to sallow skin.

Tata Harper Resurfacing Body Serum and Revitalizing Body Oil: The skin on your body doesn’t necessarily need the same level of attention as the skin on your face…unless you’re in Canada and it’s cold for half of the year. I love this dual-step ritual for my body, starting with the serum and finishing with the oil. My only qualm is that the pump method didn’t work particularly well with the serum, making it difficult to salvage the last few drops from the bottle. If you have the budget for only one product, go with the oil.

Youth to the People Kale Superfood Cleanser: a classic cult favourite, but also an unlikely effective method for removing dirt from white jeans without bleaching.

On my facial with Vee - in October I had the privilege of visiting Skin By Vee, a boutique clinic in the outskirts of Yorkville. Vee’s reputation precedes her - she’s known for being a bit of a wizard, mixing potions and customizing blends for her clients. I’ve paid for numerous facials this year, as I’ve had more flare ups with my skin. Most were disastrous. At one, I left with some face mask residue still clinging, dried to my skin, because a negligent aesthetician failed to wash it off. At another, though I thought my skin wasn’t at its worst, I was asked “what the hell I’ve been putting on my skin.” I’ve left these appointments, which cost hundreds of dollars each, feeling more insecure than when I came, which somewhat soured my view of the industry and called into question the point of it all. I felt the pressure of traditional beauty marketing, where the primary plan of attack is to make you feel slightly worthless without the aid of x, y, or z products.

Vee’s approach is entirely different. You’re greeted warmly upon arrival and talk about all aspects of your life. Speaking with Vee feels a bit like talking to a therapist - she likens her work to skin therapy, incorporating memorable Vee-isms to assuage stress and anxiety. “Let’s just be blunt about it. You have some acne, and it’s okay.” Vee was clear about being upfront, adding, “We’re going to get through this because that’s just what we have to do.” Memory is fallible and I obviously paraphrase slightly, but her kindness and acceptance of my skin in its existing condition was impressionable and - though I hate to say this - rare.

One of my personal favourite moments during my facial: “Listen, I’m British. We love a beer.” Read: enjoy the foods and things we typically associate with acne triggers. Dairy. Meat. Wine. Dessert. Parallel to Cognitive Behavioural Therapy, Vee’s approach involves understanding what protocols to take when we do push our skin’s barriers (pun intended). She recommended a pared back approach to skincare products and a slight change of methods to address inflammation: wash your face with cold water only, flip your pillowcase each night and change it up every two, use a different washcloth/towel to pat your face dry after each wash. Also incorporated was a strict no-pick policy and a product protocol involving Circcell Geothermal Clay Cleanser, Jan Marini Bioclear Face Lotion, and the Augustinus Bader Light Cream. Each product I find incredible, but the Jan Marini serum completely changed my skin texture for the better. I’ve since booked follow up treatments with Vee for maintenance, and I’ve noticed a significant difference in my skin’s appearance, mostly in texture and clarity. At a whopping $500 for a tailored facial (there is another option for a mere - and I say this sarcastically - $380), a session with Vee is no small investment, but if you’re seeking the same comfort and experience as I did, it’s truly worth it.

My work affords the privilege of testing a ridiculous number of products. I’ve had to severely limit what I put on to my face due to sensitization, but there were noteworthy new additions to my bathroom cabinet that deserve an honourable mention:

Klur Immersion Serum Concentrate: I am baffled by claims that Barbara Sturm’s Hyaluronic Serum really does anything. After testing the product for months, I’ve concluded it’s not worth the $300+ hype. At a much more wallet-friendly price point is this exponentially more effective serum from Klur, comprising an essential blend of beta-glucan and Vitamins B5, C, and E. It’s quenching and perfect for colder weather. I use this mostly at night.

La Roche Posay Cicaplast B5 Spray: a French pharmacy TikTok phenomenon, I picked up this product in October while in Paris for Fashion Week. Since sub-zero temperatures are now the norm for the foreseeable future, this serum has made its way to the fore of my top shelf, singlehandedly aiding in combatting my perpetually flaky skin, while also adding an additional protective barrier against the elements. I have a multitude of uses for this product: a spray after cleaninsg, a few generous spritzes before a winter run (it’s lightweight and won’t clog pores as you sweat!), and I also spray makeup brushes before blending foundation (it helps with any dry flaky skin). While this product is not available (yet?) in Canada, in the interim I will be stocking up in Paris whilst simultaneously pleading with the PR team to advocate for a North American launch.

Merit Great Skin Serum: If the Klur serum is slightly too rich, and the Cicaplast B5 Spray too light (or too unavailable), consider this gem a happy medium. A lipid and aqueous solution harmonize in a two-part blend, best served shaken (not stirred). I love this as both a morning serum and a primer - standout ingredients include niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, Japanese Goldthread root, and Cacao seed extract. It’s fondly advertised as liquid gold, and rightly so - whether the cacao seed or another ingredient results in the serum’s rich, caramel colour, I like to think that this tint counters the pallor of my winter complexion. Placebo or not, this really is a one-serum-does-all kind of product, and I’m thrilled that a travel-sized version is now available.

Saltyface Tanning Foam for Body: In my undergraduate days I went through a serial tanning phase (which aligned most conveniently with December exam seasons, when I was most stressed and seeking for any and all remedies for the winter blues), to the point where my boyfriend at the time said “love you, but you need to chill with the stress-tanning.” I’ve since halted the aggressive foam-and-mitt method for a more refined practice, exchanging my Vita Liberata and St. Tropez bottles for the grown up version. The thing is, most tanning products look (and smell) cheap and trashy. Saltyface is the antidote to this niche corner of the beauty industry, with most products packaged in a heavyweight brown glass vessel, offering a chic brush applicator instead of an inconvenient and ugly mitt. The setup is certainly deserving of a spot on on display. Might I suggest it sits next to your unscented Nécessaire shampoo? For a more natural and gradual approach, I mix this foam with my Nécessaire body serum and top with a layer of lotion.

Eadem Dew Dream Cleansing Balm: If you’re not yet ready to spend $95 on the aforementioned cleansing balm (see beauty empties), consider this $30 alternative from Eadem, a BIPOC-founded skincare company intent on dispelling the Beauty Burden (the notion that people of colour aren’t considered as beautiful by the rest of the industry). If the iridescent glisten of the cleansing balm and brilliant tube packaging (seriously though, why do so many cleansing balms require a spatula or - in my case as I can never keep track of where I put all the free spatulas - a dip of a finger to retrieve product?) isn’t enough to persuade you, perhaps its efficacy will.

And I believe that’s all for now! Next time, I’ll be sharing my makeup favourites from this entire year, both new and old goodies that deserve a spot in the limelight. Until then, here is a working gift guide that I’m putting together as the holiday season looms ever nearer.